Castellorizo: Europe's farthest point reaching into the heart of the Orient. A rock of pride, Greek by history but closer to Turkey by geography, the Mediterranean island has attracted the jealous attentions of many powers: the Ottomans for two centuries, then Britain and Italy, and even France between 1916 and 1920. In its heydays, it was known as "Little Paris", drawing thousands of the region's high-livers to its port. Today, only 150 of its 15 000 inhabitants remain, torn between nostalgia for the past, the ruins of the war, and the desire to live elsewhere. A handful of men and women, attached to their rock in the sea, have begun work on restoring its pride of old.